4.6 being installed now

[RICH MUISE]

This is "one step forward and two back" week!!...while I'm waiting for the correct alternator wiring to come in, I finished up the main battery cables. Crimped and soldered, came out pretty nice. I was tightening the nut down and spun the stud in the solenoid. %$#@#*!! Couldn't tighten couldn't loosen. The starter probably isn't coming out without dropping the Rack, especially with the cables still connected. I did manage to drop out the solinoid far enough to get in there with a cut off disc and get the nut cut off. I've got a new solenoid on the way.
So, while I'm waiting for the solenoid, while I'm waiting for the wiring, I figured I'd install the new Tanks Inc gas sending unit....wrong!! Another not paying enough attention thing. The new gas tank is a repro of the original with the locking ring. The new sending unit I've got has a screw down bolt pattern in it, and even if I welded the holes shut, the plate is too thick and too large dia. I looked at the new, but flimsy sending unit that came with my gages, and it too had the 5 hole pattern. I went and found my old oem sending unit and the top plate is still in good shape, so I'm going to use it to mount the Tanks Inc guts onto.
Don't throw your old sending units even if they don't work...you may need the mounting plate some day.

[canadian_ranchero]

i feel better i am not the only one with the 1 step forward and 2 back week

[RICH MUISE]

Got the new starter solenoid in tonight and installed it. This time, realizing the studs are copper, I was a little more careful tighning the nuts. LOL...I'm old, and have lost alot of hand/arm strength over the past few years...I wasn't sure I could overtighten anything.
I also got a "cannister purge solenoid". I'm not running the cannister, but wanted to avoid having the computer throw codes. I've just got the solenoid in an out of the way place behing the wheel well. Does anybody know how these operate, or what signals the solenoid? I don't want this thing in a constant state of opening/closing, so I'm trying to figure out what to do with the tubing inlet/outlet. Should I plug them both, plug neither, run a loop of tubing from one side to the other? Any suggestions?
This cannister purge wiring is the LAST bag of wiring for the engine management harness.

[canadian_ranchero]

the canister purge solenoid has a little valve that open and closes on the computers demand.just plug both of them,to keep the dirt out of the valve

[RICH MUISE]

Got them plugged..thanks for the advise. I got the alternator wiring in from Ron Francis...hopefully will get that installed tommorrow. They supply a 6 gage cable for the alternator/battery feed on this engine. The one they had sent me for the older style alternator was about a 10 gage...quite a difference.
I got most of the wiring done on the dash panel. I used some multi-wire connectors I found at Radio Shack....I think they worked out quite well. This will allow me to pull the panel should the need arise without having to pull alot of wiring. About the last thing to do on the panel is drill a hole for the high beam indicator LED. My turn signal indicators, btw are going to be in the hood scoop, and I mounted the check engine and OD/off lights on the console.

[RICH MUISE]

Where do the days go?...I started wiring in the under-dash side of the dash panel connectors. Before I go too far, I'm going to have to replace the 4.6's oem oil and temp. sending units with the ones to match the gauges. I'm hoping I'm not going to run into any fitment problems, but I've got high hopes since the speed generator for the tranny was the correct one. I also talked with Vintage Air about tying in their wiring to the Ron Francis relay/sensor for the cooling fans. That is going to be super simple...the VA guy knew exactly what I had installed for the relay, and told me what to run and to where. That was the last unknown I had to figure out. The fuel pump, speedometer input, and cooling fans were all taken care of with the Ron Francis stuff. Now I've just got to get it all done!
BTW, I can simplify the Vintage Air GenIV wiring a bit because I can/should eliminate the 40 amp circuit breaker they had in line (and in the wrong position for my application) because I'm using those fused distribution boxes..one of the fused strips is a 40 amp. I need to check when I get to it if I can also eliminate the relay they have also in line. I'm not sure offhand if it's for the compressor or the cooling fans.

[RICH MUISE]

Spent most of the weekend doing plumbing and appliance repair in the house..but, I did get my dash panel wired up and installed with plug in connectors. I also got the starter/solenoid and the altenator wired up. The two gages in the console are wired and ready to go in..also with connectors. I got the new oil sender installed, so that was the last thing keeping me from putting in oil and figuring out the dip stick oil level marking. I installed a sacraficial annode in the radiator, so after I get the temp sending unit installed, I can get the coolant put in. I'm also using distilled water and a coolant addative to reduce corrosion on the aluminum . I broke the poorly made water temp sending unit trying to install it..got a new one on the way..hope it's the correct ohms range. The TPI-Tech company that made my gages is apparently no longer in business, so I haven't been able to find out what range the gage operates at. I'm hoping they were consistant and used the same 240-33 their fuel gage uses. The new one will be better anyway because the sender core is longer to allow for the needed threaded adapter.
Hopefully today I'll get started on the A/C wiring. I think I'll wait until after the car is running and all the wiring to date chacked out before I get into wiring the radio and 12v power outlets. I'm hoping to find some good grounding straps at the swap meet this weekend.
Got a few questions for you 4.6 guys...there is a sender on the side of the oil pan..low oil level I'm guessing? also there is an electrical connector on the bottom of the power steering pump..any idea what that was for? Neither those or the capacitors on the coil packs are being addressed with the Ron Francis kit. The Vintage Air instructions warn not to delete those capacitors.

[Ford Blue blood]

Low oil sender.....variable ratio power steering input.

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks for the info, Bill. The low oil sender was up pretty high in the pan, that's what got me to thinking maybe it was oil temp. Two things not to worry about....I figured that was the case since RF wasn't addressing them. The deletion of the capacitors may be something I'll need to take care of down the road. Vintage warns of interference with their systen if they've been deleted. I'll look into how to include them when I switch to the coil on plugs.

[Ford Blue blood]

I believe the capacitors may be there for protection.  The coils are fired by relays in the computer, kinda like points, when the signal to "drop" the relay out the field collapses and induces a reverse voltage, or, interference.  The capacitors suck up that signal and bleed it off slowly....

[RICH MUISE]

I need to research a bit and find out where they installed them on the cop versions. Most of the guys on the SVT forum just deleted them as "unnecessary" when they converted over to the cop's!

[canadian_ranchero]

i think i read somewhere that the capacitors were put there to control the ignition noise from the plug wires

[RICH MUISE]

That would be good since I'm planning on not having spark plug wires.
Another question....I'm getting real antsy to hit the ignition switch to see if at least that much works. I've still got my A/C wiring to hook up, and originally was thinking I didn't want to start the engine until I had refrigerant/oil in the A/C system so I wouldn't be running the compressor dry. My question is, if I don't have the A/C wired/turned on, the compressor/clutch won't kick in  anyways, correct? That'll be one step closer to turning the key. I know the fuel pump also isn't suppose to run dry, but I should be able to just pop the button on the inertia switch to cut that off.
I did put oil in this morning. 5 qts brought it to full, which is what I believe the front sump Continental oil capacity is. The really good news is after 3 hours, not a spot of oil on the oil pan where I modified/welded. I wasn't 100% sure the Mark viii dipstick was going to work out with the Continental oil pan. I do have PS fluid in the reservoir, so the PS pump will have fluid to it.
Also, I'm planning on having the rear up on jacks, so I don't have to worry about the brake system. I think all I've got to do is put the new transmision pan gasket and filter on, fill the fluid, and rework the crossmember's e brake bracket while it's out. Run body/frame/engine ground staps and go thru my check list once more. Oh, yeah..install the new temp sender when it comes in and add the coolant. Like I said...one step at a time, if I get to turn that key next week and hear the sweet sound of a starter it'll be music to my ears.

[Ford Blue blood]

My question is, if I don't have the A/C wired/turned on, the compressor/clutch won't kick in  anyways, correct? That is correct
That'll be one step closer to turning the key. I know the fuel pump also isn't suppose to run dry, but I should be able to just pop the button on the inertia switch to cut that off. correct also
and hear the sweet sound of a starter it'll be music to my ears.only thing sweeter is putting it gear the first time on the ground and having it move and stop

[canadian_ranchero]

some a/c systems turn the compressor on when the system is on defrost.make sure you have oil in the transmission before you start it