Thanks. what I'm really looking for is the routing of the wires and where they enter the trunk.  I plan to mount the solenoid remotely and run cables through the inner support, unless there is a better way.

Where the wires enter the trunk will be somewhat determined by where you locate the activation button. BTW, for the button, I used a starter button, and I located it on the side panel in front of the rear seat, drivers side of course. I also had mounted a power distribution box in the trunk when I did the original wiring, and that's where the trunk release gets it's power from. Other than that, just run those wires along with the tailight wires, just stop them where the activation button is going to be. I did get some pics while I was fixing my gas sending unit this morning....just got to get them downloaded.

Some pics of a not too pretty trunk anymore.

Thanks, Rich.  I will post a picture when I finally get things installed.

Looking at that first pic, you can't see it, but I installed a small pulley to get the cable pulling in the correct direction. I think I remember using a nylon screen door roller for it, held in place with one of the hex screws.

I was thinking of running two cables. one for the manual release and one for the power release.  The manual release will terminate under the driver's side front seat.  The solenoid for electric release will be located under the package tray and both cables run through the trunk lid inner support panel.

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2021-08-20 19:17
Some pics of a not too pretty trunk anymore.

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What do you expect? It's driven! That makes it a better ride! 

Terry, this is my 53 Lincoln trunklid, but the 57 should be very much the same really.
I reworked the latch a little so that the activator lever and cable end actually sit hidden INSIDE the inner trunklid structure. I routed the cable inside the structure so it is invisible. on this picture you can see the cable sheath next to the structure, because it was easier routing it under one X brace and another and finally sneaking it inside the inner structure. it exits through a (inner structure) drain hole, quite close to the left hinge and is tied to the hinge with some zip ties ( leave enough play so the cable can move back and forth and extend when opening or closing trunk). from there you can route it wherever you want, under rear seat, next to rear armrest, under carpet and under front seat....

Thanks gentlemen!  My idea was to run between the inner and outer panel near the hinge, down the 45 degree support to the middle of the trunk and then rearward to the latch mechanism.  I found it extremely difficult to make the turns and stopped to get an idea of how others had accomplished the same results.  This shows there are many ways to open the trunk!  I am still contemplating my options. There can be no really wrong way to route the cables as long as the latch is released reliabiy.

let us know if you're successful! I honestly don't think it would work unless you could make a straight shot.....I would think trying to go around corners, the cable is going to get hung up on the structure...................unless, (the light just came on), you are routing a sheathed cable.

Rich, on my Lincoln I am running a fully sheathed cable, something like a bicycle shift cable. it operates nicely even though it is an old worn unit (for experimenting). Already bought a new one for like $15 or so, and it has a very slippery lining inside the sheath and I believe ss wire. it will easily go around the bends INSIDE the trunklid inner structure.
As I mentioned before, the pic above is halfway through installation. I later on shoved the sheath INSIDE the inner structure so it is totally invisible. though I had to modify the rear latch mechanism somewhat (weld on a lever and a cable sheath rest), which may be out of question for some.

I have the dash installed but now find out I have to take it back out so the windlace can be installed.  I have changed the og wire harness for another one I had on hand.  Now with having to removing the dash, again, I'm contemplating going with an aftermarket wire harness.    I want the one most easily plug and play.  Any suggestions on the harness?

I am going to install a '74 302, with PS.  Later, I may install AC.  Any suggestions on what alternator I should plan to use?  I ask this bc this will need to be answered when ordering a wire harness.

Thanks in advance!

To me, there is only one choice. Ron Francis. Top quality wire and components, made for Fords, not Chevy universal. Expensive, but I for one don't want Chinese wire in my car. Instructions are top notch........if you can read, you can wire your car. Their Express kit is made for YOUR car, no universal crap here. It'll have a serial number on it that for future reference thay can tell exactly how the harness was built (for what engine, components, tec) They use sxl or gxl wire...double-jacket cross-linked
www.ronfrancis.com

2X what he said!  None better then Ron Francis!

I began installing the wire harness yesterday.  Bc I'm still color blind, I had help with the color of the wires coming from the 62 Ford column.  I had spent an hour trying to identify wire colors w/o success so enlisted my grandson's help, 10 minutes later the wires were labeled.

The small amount that I have accomplished went very well.  One thing I have been disappointed with is that I had to tell them what column I was using, the make of the car and yet the column interface was for an aftermarket column and the dimmer switch interface was for a gm switch.  These are minor things but with the info provided, I really expected to have Ford terminals, where terminals were provided.

The kit includes a very nice modern style light switch.  It has a stainless knob that looks great but will require modification of the dash insert to use.  How have others addressed this situation with the light switch?  I really want to keep the appearance/illusion of the og switch. Perhaps keep the og switch in the dash and the new one under the dash.  Any thoughts?