update on Rich's build

[RICH MUISE]

I'm going to start  posting some links to oddball threads used on my build to help me find stuff when I'm looking for something in particular. This one is for the
hydraulic hood lifts.
http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4641.0#msg34101
I need to order some replacement lifts as mine are showing signs of wear. The lifts still hold the hood up, but not in any position as they had been doing.
Three years later, btw, I love this mod! Now, soon, I get to see if the extra work I went thru to make replacement easier is actually going to pan out!
Gas tank and air intake modifications: http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.300
carpeting http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3518.msg21046#msg21046
Rack and pinion info http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5600.msg44225#msg44225
Ride height approximately post 400 thru 480 http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.405
shocks http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.msg49669;topicseen#msg49669
Windlace http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=994.15
Emergency brake https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4227.0
Headliner/windlace http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3085.msg18136#msg18136
                                                                    http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3139.15
radiator hoses, thermostat housing http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.240
Modified trans crossmember  http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.135
Gas pedal mods for cable http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.165
Kick panels (sunvisors on next page) http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.30
Engine replace     http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=7786.0
rear disc brakes http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=5795.255    starts at post 264
hood hydaulic lifts http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4641.0
Hydroboost plumbing https://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=9090.msg90205#msg90205.

[Ford Blue blood]

Three years later, btw, I love this mod! Now, soon, I get to see if the extra work I went thru to make replacement easier is actually going to pan out!

With you on that Rich!  Lots of time spent figuring out the "how, what, and where" of down the road repairs instead of going the "easy" route!  I like to call it "six pack engineering".......

[RICH MUISE]

The silver lining in replacing my engine is I now know a bit more about the way stuff works. For example, the intake has 16 runners. I knew the engine was suppose to run on 8 of the 16 until it reached 3000 rpm, when the other 8 would open up. I had no idea how that happened mechanically, but now I do, and it's actually pretty simple.
There are two intake "logs" that the intake manifold bolts to, each having 8 ports. Every other port has a butterfly valve. Those 4 butterfly valves are all mounted to the same rod that passes the length of the log. At the back end, that rod is connected to a vacuum dashpot. The vacuum to that dashpot is controlled by an electronic switch that gets signals from the computer. With no vacuum (engine off), the valves are open. As soon as the engine starts, every other valves are suppose to close. They will be opened again when needed at 3000 rpm by the computer sending a signal to the switch.

I've talked alot about idle problems I've had, so when I pulled my engine apart, I was looking at stuff that would affect the idle. I thoroughly cleaned the logs I talked about above,and made sure the butterflies were operating freely. I also pulled a vacuum on the dashpots, and they immediatly closed the valves. So, that part is all good. After  I get my replacement engine up and running, I now know to look and see if the vacuum switch and lines are functioning. I simply need to watch for movement by the dashpots as soon as the engine is started. No movement would mean too much air at idle.
I did also find my EGR valve on the old engine was not seated. It is seated correctly on the replacement engine. That could have been an idle issue as well, and the cause of some egr related codes the computer was throwing. Another thing I fixed, there is an EGR sensor that was suppose to be mounted in a verticle (arrow up) position. It wasn't. I had to replace silicon hoses and change the wiring a bit, but the sensor is now positioned properly. It is the sensor/reader that has hose connections to the tube running off the O2 sensors to the EGR valve.

[mustang6984]

My head hurts! And I thought synchronizing a tri-power was hard! LOL!!!

[djfordmanjack]

Getting closer Rich !

[RICH MUISE]

OK..another year down the road, another 8k miles or so. The car has been running great, I'm really happy with the steering changes I made while the engine was out last year. I just recently replaced the upper and lower ball joints to get good boots on them. While I had it apart, we also replaced the brake pads, rotors, wheel bearings, and shocks (front and rear). I had it aligned afterward, and my guy told me nothing had moved, all the readings were as he set them over a year ago.

These past few weeks I've been working on changes. On a road trip to Oklahoma last week, one of my hood pins came loose and scared the crap out of me, but the other one held, so I never had to find out if the secondary safety catch would hold at 75mph (while passing 3 semi's:103:). I slowed to 40 and stopped at a hardware store and jury rigged a temporary fix. Well, this was obviously a "what was I thinking" when I realized I was lucky the fitting held for 4 years and 39k miles. I had used the spot welded threaded fitting that was meant for the hood bumpers for the hood pins. Those fittings were never meant to hold under pulling stress. The fix was easy though, I just tack welded the fitting to the cowl with the fitting under the cowl sheetmetal. Soooooo. if anyone is contemplating hood pins in liew of the oem hood latch, make sure you remove the fittings from the cowl in their current "on top" location and weld them in under the sheet metal.

Another change I did was to replace the cowl screen that I had sealed/rubberized to keep water out after I welded my air vents shut. May not be a problem for others, but the 4.6 dohc in mine generates substantial external heat. I realized my cowl on a hot day was getting even hotter than my hood because the heat buildup had no way of escaping. I'm pretty sure that was the source of the "heat wave" I was feeling from under the dash on a longer drive.
My next project is finding a cure for my gas tank vent gas seepage. I have an in-tank fuel pump that is installed on a recess box so the fittings and tubing all clear the trunk floor. I also installed a tip-over vent valve in the pump mounting plate. The problem with this, is with the 1 3/8 recess, when the tank is full, the vent fitting is "under water". Added to that issue is the fact I have my tank tipped down in the front about 5/8 for added fuel line clearance. This makes the fuel level even higher in the front. Before I remove the tank and rework/modify a floor brace for the clearance I need, I am going to try just using a vented gas cap. A few of the members on the 52-59 Hamb club use the vented cap with no issues.
Anyway, those are a few "don't do as I did" things probably covered early in this build thread.

BTW, the front and rear shocks I replaced. I just assumed after close to 40k miles, they were getting worn out. KYBs on the front and the Monroe '55 shocks on the back. They were really still in great shape and had I not already bought them in anticipation of getting the car ready for my friend to work on it for me, I probably wouldn't have replaced them.

[lalessi1]

Rich, that is great info and the fact that you take the time for these types of updates is appreciated. Like all I have a list of problems, attempted solutions, successes and failures. My issue in not sharing these is that my car is becoming increasingly modified so I am not sure of the mutual benefit to others.

[RICH MUISE]

Yep, I run into some stuff that would be of no use to others because of my one-off mods. Your car, Lynn, is much more traditional mods and common than mine, lol.
One thing I should have mentioned above is a few details on replacing my front rotors already.........I'm having increasing difficulty doing some work on the car because of old age physical limitations. I will get it done if I have to, but sometimes I just have stuff done for me. My friend Kip's hot rod garage is usually full of long term projects with no time or space to work on mine, but the timing worked out great this time because he actually needed some in and out fast work, so he could pay some bills. He was squeezing mine in before he got back to a must-have done job, and my car was blocking access to getting that other job in and out. He's had a problem getting rotors turned at the local parts houses because of a lack of experienced employees there that know what they are doing. He sent mine to a third store in hopes there would be no problem, but they called him and said my rotors were warped too bad to be resurfaced. WTH?? I had absolutely no pulsating of my brake pedal, so we didn't believe it. They sent him a video of the runout, and Kip mentioned to me he noticed the spindle the rotor was mounted on seemed to be running out!! Anyway, rather than tying his space up trying to find another shop to resurface the rotors, I just purchased some new ones so he could get it buttoned up. I still don't think they were bad, but new ones solved the time issue.

[djfordmanjack]

Rich and Lynn, your reports on  stuff replaced or issues solved, are much appreciated. that is real bench racing. I can't thank you enough for all the great info provided with these honest, down to earth trouble shooting. we all run into this stuff at some point.imho, its much more important to fix the  small stuff rather than hopping up an engine to the point where it can't be driven anymore. that makes no sense to me at all. rather fxing those problems of slight overheating, out of round rotors, hood stops or what have you ! Thanx alot !

[mustang6984]

Rich, that is great info and the fact that you take the time for these types of updates is appreciated. Like all I have a list of problems, attempted solutions, successes and failures. My issue in not sharing these is that my car is becoming increasingly modified so I am not sure of the mutual benefit to others.

I for one will soak up like a sponge ANY modified info you wish to share.  I may or may not use some of them...but I WILL read every one! Mine is not going to be anywhere near stock either...so if you want to share...go for it!

[RICH MUISE]

Replacing the closed-up screen under the cowl grille with a normal screen helped quite a bit keeping the cabin cool. I've had it out for a few long drives with temps well into the 90's and so far I haven't felt the heat blast from under the dash. Took the dog out for a ride Monday, it was 90*, this morning it is 40* here! I haven't looked for a vented cap for the gas tank yet, but in the meantime I'm just not filling it up all the way.

[RICH MUISE]

Well, I actually went thru and read a lot of the 52 pages. Kinda worrisome in places because I totally didn't remember some of the conversations I was deeply involved in. BTW, my gas tank's vent seepage was finally corrected by drilling a 1/16 hole in the gas cap.

[CobraJoe]

   Like my dad used to say "Getting old ain't for sissies"

[RICH MUISE]

Bringing this thread back to the top because it's got lots of topics touched on for those who weren't here way back when.

[RICH MUISE]

Time to bring to the top again because the car unfortunately is for sale.